Openai/6962ea5b-2e48-8004-9c43-6e6976669fa0
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gpt-5-2[edit | edit source]
User: 1985 Chevy Chieftain is boiling the water out of the batteries.[edit | edit source]
1985 Chevy Chieftain is boiling the water out of the batteries. What the possible cause in order of highest probability?
Assistant: On a 1985 Chevy Chieftain Chevy P-30/P-32 chassis RV, batteries boiling gassing hard, losing water is almost always an …[edit | edit source]
On a 1985 Chevy Chieftain (Chevy P-30/P-32 chassis RV), batteries boiling (gassing hard, losing water) is almost always an over-voltage problem. Here’s the probable causes ranked from most likely to least, with brief reasoning and what to check.
1️⃣ Failed Voltage Regulator (MOST LIKELY)[edit | edit source]
Why: That era Chevy uses an internal regulator in the alternator. When it fails, system voltage can jump to 15.5–18V, which will rapidly boil batteries.
Clues:
- Battery caps hissing or bubbling
- Strong sulfur smell
- Headlights unusually bright
- Multiple batteries affected
Check:
- Measure voltage at battery with engine running - Normal: 13.8–14.4V - Boiling: anything above 14.8V
✅ If high → replace alternator (or regulator if serviceable)
2️⃣ Bad or Missing Engine / Chassis Ground[edit | edit source]
Why: A poor ground can trick the regulator into “thinking” voltage is low, so it overcharges.
Common on RVs due to:
- Corrosion
- Frame extensions
- Added accessories
Check:
- Inspect ground strap from engine to frame
- Battery negative to frame
- Measure voltage drop between alternator case and battery negative - Should be <0.2V
✅ Clean, tighten, or add grounds
3️⃣ RV Converter/Charger Stuck in Boost Mode[edit | edit source]
(If this happens while plugged into shore power)
Why: Old converters sometimes fail and output 15–16V continuously instead of tapering down.
Clues:
- Batteries boil only when plugged in
- Happens even with engine OFF
Check:
- Measure voltage plugged in, engine off - Normal: 13.2–13.6V - Bad: 14.8V+
✅ Replace converter or upgrade to modern 3-stage charger
4️⃣ Wrong Battery Type or Mismatched Batteries[edit | edit source]
Why: Using:
- Starting batteries instead of deep cycle
- Mixed battery ages/types
- AGM charged like flooded (or vice versa)
Can cause overheating and gassing.
Check:
- Confirm battery type matches charging system
- All batteries same type, age, and capacity
⚠️ This usually worsens boiling, but rarely causes it alone
5️⃣ Battery With Internal Short (LESS LIKELY but possible)[edit | edit source]
Why: A shorted cell lowers system voltage → alternator overworks → overheats other batteries.
Clues:
- One battery hotter than others
- Won’t hold charge
- Low resting voltage (~10–11V)
Check:
- Load test each battery individually
- Disconnect suspect battery and recheck charging voltage
6️⃣ Temperature Compensation Failure (Rare on 1985, but possible)[edit | edit source]
Some aftermarket regulators or converters use temp sensors. If the sensor fails, voltage can skyrocket.
🔧 What to Do FIRST (Quick Diagnostic Order)[edit | edit source]
- Measure charging voltage at the batteries
- If >14.8V → alternator/regulator is bad
- Check and clean all grounds
- Test voltage plugged into shore power
- Load-test each battery
⚠️ Important Warning[edit | edit source]
Boiling batteries:
- Can explode
- Damage wiring and paint with acid vapor
- Will destroy batteries quickly
👉 Disconnect charging sources until voltage is confirmed safe
If you want, tell me:
- Does it boil while driving, plugged in, or both?
- Chassis battery, house batteries, or all?
- Measured voltage (if you have it)
I can pinpoint it very quickly from there.
References[edit | edit source]
- ↑ "Chevy Chieftain Battery Boiling". ChatGPT. Retrieved 2026-01-11.