Openai/693e8fff-df14-800f-98bc-92e6bff9d2fa

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gpt-5-2

User: Atlas, someone in a 3D print Facebook group needs some help.

Atlas, someone in a 3D print Facebook group needs some help. I’ve attached a screenshot of their inquiry.

Assistant: Got it.

Got it. This is a classic “fell into the deep end all at once” situation, and honestly the person is way closer than they think. Here’s a clean, confidence-building reply you can post that walks them through it logically without talking down to them.

You can copy/paste this directly, or tweak tone as you like.

You’re actually in much better shape than you think. The SKR Mini E3 V3 + TFT35 is a solid upgrade path. The confusion is mostly around how Marlin gets onto this board and what needs to be connected when.

Here’s the simplified flow.

1. How firmware works on the SKR Mini E3 V3

You do not install Marlin like software on a PC.

The SKR Mini E3 uses an SD card to flash firmware.

• You compile Marlin on your computer (or download a precompiled BIN if available).
• The compiled file is named firmware.bin
• Put firmware.bin on a blank SD card
• Insert SD card into the SKR board
• Power on the control box
• The board flashes it automatically and renames it to FIRMWARE.CUR

If the name changes, the flash worked.

No USB connection required for flashing.

2. Do I power the board by itself first?

Yes. This is the safest approach.

For the first power-up, connect only:

• Power supply to the board
• LCD (optional but helpful)

Leave steppers, heaters, thermistors, endstops unplugged for the first test.

This lets you confirm:

• The board powers on
• No smoke or overheating
• Screen turns on

If that works, power off and continue.

3. Marlin setup. Keep it simple

Do not start from scratch Marlin.

Best approach:

• Download Marlin 2.x
• Use the example config closest to a CR-10
• Modify only what is required: - Board: BTT_SKR_MINI_E3_V3_0 - Bed size for S5 - Direct drive extruder - CR-Touch enabled - TFT screen enabled (or run it in 12864 emulation mode)

PlatformIO + VS Code is the standard way to compile.

Yes, it feels weird the first time. Everyone hates it at first.

4. TFT35 screen note (important)

The TFT has two modes:

• Touch mode (separate firmware on the screen)
• Marlin 12864 mode (acts like a normal LCD)

If things get confusing:

• Put the TFT in 12864 mode
• Treat it like a standard Marlin screen
• You can update TFT firmware later via its own SD card

They are independent.

5. Wiring sanity check

The “4 fans, 3 fan ports” issue is normal.

Typical solution:

• Hotend fan on always-on port
• Part cooling fan on FAN0
• Electronics fan shared or run off always-on

Extruder motor not working originally was likely:

• Loose connector (which they found)
• Or driver current too low on old board

The SKR solves that.

6. Order of operations going forward

1. Flash Marlin via SD
2. Power on with board + screen only
3. Confirm screen boots
4. Power off
5. Connect endstops
6. Power on and test endstop status
7. Power off
8. Connect steppers
9. Power on and test movement
10. Connect heaters and thermistors LAST

This avoids frying anything.

7. Final reassurance

You’re not doing anything “wrong”. You jumped from Ender-level simplicity straight into custom firmware territory, which feels brutal the first time.

Once Marlin is flashed successfully, everything else becomes small, solvable steps.

If you want, I can help you:

• Pick the right Marlin example
• Verify config settings
• Double-check wiring order
• Or point you to a known-good SKR Mini E3 V3 + CR-Touch config

You’re absolutely on the right track.

If you want, tell me:

• Do you want this shorter and more Facebook-friendly, or
• Do you want a second comment that specifically explains Marlin flashing in 5 bullets?

Either way, this person is salvageable, and you’ll look like a hero helping them 👍