Editing Openai/696d4fbf-cd9c-8002-851c-19bcf98e97fa (section)

=== Option 6: “Cable steering + kneeling lock” (turn by pulling handles) ===

This is how some sit-skis and MTB snowboard rigs steer, but you do it while kneeling.

===== Concept =====

You kneel solidly locked in, but steer with a handlebar/rope setup for additional control.

===== How it works =====
* A short handlebar on a post mounted on the board.
* Or a chest harness connected to lines to help turn (like kite control, but fixed).

===== Pros / Cons =====
* ✅ Gives you a second control input besides hips
* ✅ Helps prevent toe/heel edge washout
* ❌ Risky: handlebar can become a lever in a crash

==== Materials that work (don’t cheap out here) ====
* HDPE (cutting board plastic): great for kneeling deck surfaces
* UHMW tape/sheets: low friction underside or edges
* Closed-cell EVA foam: knee padding
* Gel knee pads: shock absorption
* Stainless bolts + nylock nuts: vibration proof
* Cam buckle straps or ratchets: with quick release

Avoid:
* soft couch foam (bottoms out)
* Velcro-only as primary retention
* weak wood without sealing (water wrecks it)

==== Biggest danger points (tell-it-like-it-is) ====
* Knee ligament injury is your #1 risk. Snowboard edge catches create twisting.
* Tibial torsion (shin twisting) is a real risk if your shin isn’t locked.
* Hip flexor strain is common with feet tucked hard behind.
* You need to be able to eject in a crash, or you’ll get levered.

If you attempt this at all, the safest first tests are:
* flat gentle slope
* soft snow
* low speed
* helmet + knee braces + padded shorts

==== If you want, I can design an actual build plan ====

If you tell me:
# your board length and binding insert pattern (standard 4x4? channel system?),
# your height/weight,
# whether you want hard boots or soft boots,

…I can lay out a complete parts list + a step-by-step build for the best option (I’d recommend Option 2 + Option 4 combined).