Editing Openai/6965a94f-024c-8006-84fe-a890ecf190a1 (section)

=== Assistant: Here’s the San Luis Valley / south of Blanca-specific playbook for creeping thyme Thymus spp.. ===
Here’s the San Luis Valley / south of Blanca-specific playbook for creeping thyme (Thymus spp.). The big things you’re working with are: very dry air, intense sun/wind, sandy/alkaline soils in many spots, and a short season (late frosts). Blanca-area moisture can be very low (as little as ~7 inches/year in nearby BLM descriptions), so establishment watering matters even for “drought tolerant” plants. Bureau of Land Management<ref>{{cite web|title=Bureau of Land Management|url=https://www.blm.gov/visit/blanca-wetlands|publisher=Bureau of Land Management|access-date=2026-01-21}}</ref>

==== For groundcover in Colorado mountain/high valley conditions, CSU lists these as go-to “creeping thyme” types: ====
* Thymus praecox (creeping thyme) – great low mat, evergreen-ish look, good xeric choice CSU Engagement and Extension<ref>{{cite web|title=CSU Engagement and Extension|url=https://extension.colostate.edu/resource/xeriscaping-ground-cover-plants/|publisher=CSU Engagement and Extension|access-date=2026-01-21}}</ref>
* Thymus serpyllum (creeping thyme / mother-of-thyme) – lots of varieties, aromatic, can handle some foot traffic CSU Engagement and Extension<ref>{{cite web|title=CSU Engagement and Extension|url=https://extension.colostate.edu/resource/ground-covers-and-rock-garden-plants-for-mountain-communities/|publisher=CSU Engagement and Extension|access-date=2026-01-21}}</ref>
* Thymus pseudolanuginosus (woolly thyme) – tougher-looking silvery mat; also noted by CSU CSU Engagement and Extension<ref>{{cite web|title=CSU Engagement and Extension|url=https://extension.colostate.edu/resource/ground-covers-and-rock-garden-plants-for-mountain-communities/|publisher=CSU Engagement and Extension|access-date=2026-01-21}}</ref>

If you want it between stepping stones / light traffic: T. serpyllum and woolly thyme get called out for tolerating some foot traffic. CSU Engagement and Extension<ref>{{cite web|title=CSU Engagement and Extension|url=https://extension.colostate.edu/resource/ground-covers-and-rock-garden-plants-for-mountain-communities/|publisher=CSU Engagement and Extension|access-date=2026-01-21}}</ref>

==== Your “safe” outdoor planting window is later than most of Colorado. Example nearby SLV station data shows an average last spring frost around June 5 (San Luis station). The Old Farmer's Almanac<ref>{{cite web|title=The Old Farmer's Almanac|url=https://www.almanac.com/gardening/planting-calendar/CO/San%20Luis|publisher=The Old Farmer's Almanac|access-date=2026-01-21}}</ref> ====
Blanca frost-date tools also show early fall frosts can come fast (often early September for 32°F). Garden.org<ref>{{cite web|title=Garden.org|url=https://garden.org/apps/frost-dates/Blanca%2C%2BCO/|publisher=garden.org|access-date=2026-01-21}}</ref>

What that means for you:
* Plant outside: late May → mid-June is usually the sweet spot (after hard frosts are done).
* Fall planting: doable, but only if you can give it enough time to root before freezes (in SLV that window can be tight).

==== Creeping thyme thrives in sandy/rocky, fast-draining soil and actually prefers “lean” soil. Poor drainage is what kills it (root rot). CSU warns root rot can be a problem in heavy/wet soils. CSU Engagement and Extension<ref>{{cite web|title=CSU Engagement and Extension|url=https://extension.colostate.edu/resource/ground-covers-and-rock-garden-plants-for-mountain-communities/|publisher=CSU Engagement and Extension|access-date=2026-01-21}}</ref> ====

In SLV reality: wind + sun will dry the top inch fast, but if you plant into a weird low spot that holds water after a storm/irrigation, thyme can still rot.

===== - Build a slightly raised planting strip (even 2–4 inches helps) =====
* Mix native soil with gravel + coarse sand (and a little compost only if your soil is pure sand with zero body)
* Top-dress with pea gravel instead of wood mulch (wood mulch holds moisture against stems)

==== Once established, thyme is very low-water. CSU’s PlantTalk notes thyme tolerates dry conditions and prefers well-drained soil, plus gives winter watering guidance (monthly in dry winter periods). PlantTalk Colorado<ref>{{cite web|title=PlantTalk Colorado|url=https://planttalk.colostate.edu/topics/annuals-perennials/1063-thyme/|publisher=PlantTalk Colorado|access-date=2026-01-21}}</ref> ====

Establishment schedule that works well in SLV:
* Weeks 1–2: water every 2–3 days (quick soak, not a swamp)
* Weeks 3–6: 1–2×/week depending on wind/heat
* After ~6–10 weeks: back off—deep water only when it’s been dry a long time

Winter: CSU specifically suggests mulching after the first of the year to prevent frost heaving and watering once a month during dry winter periods. PlantTalk Colorado<ref>{{cite web|title=PlantTalk Colorado|url=https://planttalk.colostate.edu/topics/annuals-perennials/1063-thyme/|publisher=PlantTalk Colorado|access-date=2026-01-21}}</ref>

(Frost heaving is a real SLV issue because freeze/thaw + wind exposure can pop shallow-rooted stuff up.)

==== - Space plants 6–12 inches apart depending on how fast you want coverage. ====
* In SLV, thyme will fill slower if you keep it too dry early, or if soil is too rich (rich soil can make it floppy/less dense).

Rule of thumb: tight spacing = faster carpet + fewer weeds.

==== Thyme generally performs better in low fertility conditions; rich soil can reduce the compact “mat” habit and encourage weak growth. Most creeping-thyme guides also emphasize minimal feeding and focusing on drainage. GardenDesign.com<ref>{{cite web|title=GardenDesign.com|url=https://www.gardendesign.com/perennials/creeping-thyme.html|publisher=gardendesign.com|access-date=2026-01-21}}</ref> ====

If you must do anything: a light dusting of compost at planting (not annually).

==== - After flowering: shear lightly (like giving it a buzz cut) to keep it dense and prevent woody/thin centers. ====
* Pull weeds early—once thyme knits together, it becomes its own weed barrier.

==== Creeping thyme is broadly cold-hardy (commonly listed down to very cold zones), but in your area the bigger threats are: ====
* frost heave (address with gravel top-dress + CSU’s winter mulch timing) PlantTalk Colorado<ref>{{cite web|title=PlantTalk Colorado|url=https://planttalk.colostate.edu/topics/annuals-perennials/1063-thyme/|publisher=PlantTalk Colorado|access-date=2026-01-21}}</ref>
* winter desiccation (dry wind pulling moisture out when the ground is frozen)

Two practical tricks:
* Gravel top-dress around crowns (best)
* If you’re super exposed/windy, a light windbreak (rocks, edging, low fence) helps more than people think.

==== - It’s dying in patches: usually water pooling or heavy soil → add gravel, raise the bed, reduce watering. ====
* Looks thin/leggy: too much shade or too rich/wet soil → move to sunnier spot, stop feeding, shear after bloom.
* Not spreading: often not enough establishment water in the first month (SLV wind is a thief) → water a bit more often early on.
* Critters: CSU notes thyme is deer/rabbit resistant for these groundcover thymes. CSU Engagement and Extension<ref>{{cite web|title=CSU Engagement and Extension|url=https://extension.colostate.edu/resource/ground-covers-and-rock-garden-plants-for-mountain-communities/|publisher=CSU Engagement and Extension|access-date=2026-01-21}}</ref>

==== - Between stepping stones / around patio edges (smells amazing when you walk on it) ====
* As a “living mulch” around rock features
* On slight slopes for erosion control (as long as you can water it the first season)

If you tell me (1) full sun hours, (2) your soil type (sand, clay-ish, or “blown dust / caliche”), and (3) if it’s in a windy open flat or near a windbreak, I’ll give you a dead-simple exact bed recipe (how much gravel/sand/compost) and a watering schedule tuned to your spot.