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=== Assistant: On a 1985 Chevy Chieftain Chevy P-30/P-32 chassis RV, batteries boiling gassing hard, losing water is almost always an … === On a 1985 Chevy Chieftain (Chevy P-30/P-32 chassis RV), batteries boiling (gassing hard, losing water) is almost always an over-voltage problem. Here’s the probable causes ranked from most likely to least, with brief reasoning and what to check. ==== 1️⃣ Failed Voltage Regulator (MOST LIKELY) ==== Why: That era Chevy uses an internal regulator in the alternator. When it fails, system voltage can jump to 15.5–18V, which will rapidly boil batteries. Clues: * Battery caps hissing or bubbling * Strong sulfur smell * Headlights unusually bright * Multiple batteries affected Check: * Measure voltage at battery with engine running - Normal: 13.8–14.4V - Boiling: anything above 14.8V ✅ If high → replace alternator (or regulator if serviceable) ==== 2️⃣ Bad or Missing Engine / Chassis Ground ==== Why: A poor ground can trick the regulator into “thinking” voltage is low, so it overcharges. Common on RVs due to: * Corrosion * Frame extensions * Added accessories Check: * Inspect ground strap from engine to frame * Battery negative to frame * Measure voltage drop between alternator case and battery negative - Should be <0.2V ✅ Clean, tighten, or add grounds ==== 3️⃣ RV Converter/Charger Stuck in Boost Mode ==== (If this happens while plugged into shore power) Why: Old converters sometimes fail and output 15–16V continuously instead of tapering down. Clues: * Batteries boil only when plugged in * Happens even with engine OFF Check: * Measure voltage plugged in, engine off - Normal: 13.2–13.6V - Bad: 14.8V+ ✅ Replace converter or upgrade to modern 3-stage charger ==== 4️⃣ Wrong Battery Type or Mismatched Batteries ==== Why: Using: * Starting batteries instead of deep cycle * Mixed battery ages/types * AGM charged like flooded (or vice versa) Can cause overheating and gassing. Check: * Confirm battery type matches charging system * All batteries same type, age, and capacity ⚠️ This usually worsens boiling, but rarely causes it alone ==== 5️⃣ Battery With Internal Short (LESS LIKELY but possible) ==== Why: A shorted cell lowers system voltage → alternator overworks → overheats other batteries. Clues: * One battery hotter than others * Won’t hold charge * Low resting voltage (~10–11V) Check: * Load test each battery individually * Disconnect suspect battery and recheck charging voltage ==== 6️⃣ Temperature Compensation Failure (Rare on 1985, but possible) ==== Some aftermarket regulators or converters use temp sensors. If the sensor fails, voltage can skyrocket. ==== 🔧 What to Do FIRST (Quick Diagnostic Order) ==== # Measure charging voltage at the batteries # If >14.8V → alternator/regulator is bad # Check and clean all grounds # Test voltage plugged into shore power # Load-test each battery ==== ⚠️ Important Warning ==== Boiling batteries: * Can explode * Damage wiring and paint with acid vapor * Will destroy batteries quickly 👉 Disconnect charging sources until voltage is confirmed safe If you want, tell me: * Does it boil while driving, plugged in, or both? * Chassis battery, house batteries, or all? * Measured voltage (if you have it) I can pinpoint it very quickly from there.
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