Editing Openai/6940b2df-db80-8003-b707-4cc5cbedf6d9 (section)

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This is the fork in the road.

ISTA+
# Put your charger on jump post + ground (stable voltage).
# Ignition ON.
# ISTA → Read out vehicle data → Vehicle test
# Look at the control unit list: - If DME does NOT respond / not present → power feed / fuse link / distribution panel / wiring issue is very likely. - If DME responds → stop chasing voltage and go after fuel/spark/authorization.

INPA
* Go into DME: confirm you can communicate.
* Go into CAS: look for start enable / key recognized.

===== Pick the easiest ones you can do safely. =====

Fuel
* When you key ON (not crank), do you hear the pump prime briefly?
* If you have a scan tool that shows it: check fuel rail pressure actual while cranking.
* If pressure is low/zero → fuel delivery problem.

Spark
* If you can safely test: spark test on one coil (proper spark tester preferred). No spark → ignition/DME/start enable path.

===== Even though 11.4V is good, a melted panel can still create weird “split-power” issues. =====

Use a multimeter while cranking:

Test A: Battery + post → underhood jump post
* Red lead: battery positive post (in trunk)
* Black lead: jump post
* Crank
* You want very low drop (roughly under ~0.2V). If you see something like 0.5V, 1.0V, etc. → resistance in the distribution panel/cable/junction.

Test B: Battery – post → engine block
* Red lead: battery negative post
* Black lead: bare metal engine block
* Crank
* Same idea: low drop good; high drop = bad ground path / ground strap / IBS connection area.

These tests don’t guess. They convict.

===== - Battery test: good for health/internal resistance. =====
* Cranking test: you already basically did; 11.4V min is strong.
* Charging test: only meaningful once it starts and runs.

So right now, the PB6000 is mostly telling you: “battery isn’t the villain.”